Sagebrush Saloons and Tiki Bars

The search for that perfect cocktail

Generally when I find myself in a bar, after a ride, I am looking for an adequate beer. What's my favorite? If I have a choice of domestics, I lean towards Pabst Blue Ribbon. If I have a choice in Mexican lagers, Pacifico is first followed by Modelo Especial and Tecate. If there are micro-brews on tap, I’ll go for something regional or go for something new. Cold and yellow - that’s what I want in my glass.

“Thanks for the beer, it’s my favorite kind,” Hathcock said, with a broad smile. “That right?” the man said as he hooked a pair of gold-framed sunglasses on his ears, their large, dark green, teardrop-shaped lenses hiding much of his expression. “Yes, sir. Yellow beer.”

- CW Henderson, Marine Sniper (1986)

But now in the Sagebrush Saloon I am looking for a Picon, Nevada's unofficial official State cocktail, with a beer back. It is the fabled thirst quencher of the Basque sheepherder, where one is not enough but three is too many. And don't forget the Kalimotxo, Coke and red wine, nor the Winnemucca Coffee, brandy, anisette, coffee with a lemon twist.

An internet search of Nevada’s Sagebrush Saloons is fairly redundant. I will include my results but I recommend discovering them organically, stumble into them with a dusty parched throat, stumble out of them after social libation. While reading the lists of 15-20 featured Nevadan watering holes, there was one, Iggy and Squiggy’s Junction Bar, that I don’t know how many times I have driven past without knowing it was there. My favorite Sagebrush Saloon is without a second consideration, Middlegate Station. I plan trips in the area just so I can have their celebratory beer and burger after. And there are many featured Sagebrush Saloons I have visited only to find locked with either very limited or indeterminate hours. So, patronize these rural businesses generously!

The Picon or Picon Punch is regional. When you find a good one you will know. If you break it down ingredient number one is the Amer (bitter) Picon. Most likely it will be Torani Amer, a close approximate. There are a few small brands making this bitter as well, Golden Moon’s Amer dit Picon and The Depot’s Amer Depot. A drizzle of grenadine, a splash of soda water, and a float of brandy, garnished with a twist of lemon completes the recipe. Serve over ice in a tulip shaped glass or in a red Solo cup.

While the search for the perfect Picon can be a regular endeavor in the ranching west, the search for the best Mai Tai might be a little more specialized. My introduction to a serious search for the best “welcome to the island drink” came from my brother-in-law. He saw it as a great underlying quest during our visit to Kauai. The goal was to have a different Mai Tai each day. Easy enough, we started at our hotel’s beach bar, Duke’s and ended with the departure lounge at the airport. We even asked Google for the best recommendation. The sports bar we ended up in, Rob’s Good Times Grill, was surprised by their ranking, but the cocktail was Mai Tai Roa Ae.

Returning to Kauai a couple years later I continued with the Mai Tai quest and added 16 more cocktails to the sampling. Then I dove into the history and lore of the Mai Tai. The story took off from there. The Mai Tai originated at Trader Vic’s in Oakland, CA. It is a Jamaican Rum based drink with lime juice, orange curaçao and orgeat flavored cocktail born in a Tiki Bar. There is so much out there on the perfect and best Mai Tai. As a result there are so many variables in finding your perfect Mai Tai. First consider the rum. The original was 17 year old J Wray & Nephew rum. Rum was intended to be the star of the drink. The next ingredients orange curaçao and lime juice were intended to compliment the rum. There are many orange liqueurs to choose from and fruit juices which become the dominant flavor and color of the island Mai Tai. Finally there is that mysterious French Orgeat, the almond flavored syrup. This ingredient is a favorite variable because one of my most memorable Mai Tais used a bar-made macadamia nut-almond orgeat.

“Tiki is a lifestyle not a drink,” Trader Vic’s. Just as the Sagebrush Saloon can be counterpoint to the Picon with a beer back, the Tiki Bar is the place for a whole pantheon of wonderful cocktails where the Zombie and Mai Tai battle for supremacy. I have included a few great links to Tiki culture. While Tiki bars start to fade inland, I propose here in the Wild West we embrace the Sagebrush Tiki Saloon. Imagine the the Island Cowboy motif. It is not too far of a stretch. Trader Vic’s has a category or merch labeled Tiki Ranch. There is a rich cowboy history in Hawaii. I can see it, can you?

Resources for inspiration:

Travel Nevada a great source for all travel tips Nevadan; Sagebrush Saloons, and again, and the Sagebrush Saloon Passport to keep record, and best recommendations for food and drink, and a story about Midas, which came recommended by my friend Leo Horishny in the comments of this Reno News and Review story.

Euskal Kazeta, a charming video on making a Sunday Picon Punch

Picon Panic, a great discussion on Picon Amer

NevadaGram: All (Dirt) Roads Lead to Picon

Basque Fact of the Week: Unique Basque Drinks

Make and Drink: The True History of the Mai Tai (You Tube) - this is a deep dive

PBS SoCal, Tiki Bars and Their Hollywood Origins, Lost LA (You Tube)

Reno You Know; Where were the Classic TIKI BAR and Establishments in Reno, Nevada (You Tube)

September in Rearview:

My riding last month was focused on preparation for what is coming up in the next weeks. I was really looking for milage and elevation with recovery. I rode up to Hobart Reservoir in the Sierras above Carson City for a little bikefishing. I rode the Capitol to Tahoe trail that has a little more milage and elevation. I live in a wonderful place for on and off road cycling with plenty of opportunities to add in water sports. I need to find that perfect balance. Don’t we all. I also did the pre-ride for the last Rides with Friends trip of the season. That ride goes off this weekend.

I only made one post to Bikepacking Northern Nevada; Event: Rides with Friends Crown Jewel - Fly and High Rock Canyons. This is the first time I have used a post to announce a trip. I hope it helps get the word out.

I had a great Zoom interview with Reet Singh from Trip Outside on setting up bike tours to foster stewardship based on my experience with FBRHR and Rides with Friends.

October, November, December Pre-view:

I have been writing this newsletter in between tasks getting ready for October. On the 3rd I head down to the Elbow on the Walker River for two days with Wildwood Open Lands Foundation (WOLF). I imagine we will be using the time to discuss events and initiatives for 2025. Then on the 5th I head to the start of Rides w Friends for that overnight. We will rendezvous with the stewardship crew from Friends of Black Rock High Rock to do a clean-up at the bottom of Little High Rock Canyon. On the 7th I head to Eureka, NV with Doug A. to ride his 630 mile Dark Sky Route over 16 days. I get back to finish the month and celebrate Nevada Day at Walker River State Park. October is full! The next newsletter might be a little delayed, but I will continue with We Were Not First, Petroglyphs.

In November I will plan a trip to the Pine Forest Range. In December I will plan a trip to Tonopah/Goldfield region. Stay tuned!

Thank you for supporting my storytelling. If there is anything I can do to help get you out there, let me know.